The post What Exactly Is Eco-Friendly Paint? appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Previously, Prestige Painting gave a basic run-down of what’s in regular house paint, and we mentioned that there are toxic compounds found in many non-eco friendly paints. Today we’re going to take a look at why not all eco-friendly paints are made equal either.

So What Makes for a “Good,” or Eco-Friendly Paint?
To find a paint type that’s good for the environment, first determine whether it’s oil-based paint or another kind, such as latex. If it’s oil, it most certainly contains high levels of VOCs, and you won’t want to use it. Most other paints contain far lower levels, but don’t stop there in your search for the healthiest option.
Next, you should check the can to see exactly how much VOC it contains. Regulations now require paints to be very specific about this. “Low” VOC paints mean that they meet the EPA’s minimum requirement to be so, having less than 250 grams of VOC per liter in latex paint and 380 grams per liter in oil. “No” VOC paints probably still have very small amounts of VOCs, but far fewer.
You can also check each paint can for the level and type of biocides and fungicides it uses, some of which are better than others. For instance, zinc oxide is a safer fungicide than most.
If your can doesn’t tell you what’s in it, or you’re not sure what label description means, always look it up online or call the paint company. Most manufacturers provide extensive data on these subjects in order to protect themselves legally.
But What’s Actually in Eco-Friendly Paint?
Well, that’s a bit of a tough question. The thing is, most of these paints are made very differently, but there are a few things you can expect to see fairly often.
First of all, you can expect a lot of low VOC paints to use water-based solvents, which are much better for the environment.
Beyond that, there are milk casein paints and “natural” paints. Milk casein paints come from a very old tradition and actually do use milk to create their product, while natural paints often rely on things like balsam, citrus and various minerals.
The actual coloring agent in more harmful paints often use synthetic materials to pigment their paint, while eco-friendly options go the natural route. Some of the common natural pigment ingredients include:
• Lime putty
• Linseed oil
• Clays
• Titanium dioxide
Once again, if the info isn’t on the can, visit the company website or call to find what you need.
A Few Important Notes on Eco-Friendly Paint
Beyond the point above, there are two further issues to consider.
One, you should find the paint that’s not only eco-friendly, but also longest lasting and most pleasing to you. VOCs and other dangerous materials tend to release most of their damaging parts closest to the date of painting. If you re-paint, you’re starting the whole process over again. Painting just once with a longer-lasting, yet somewhat more damaging paint is actually less damaging over the years than painting twice with a better paint.
Additionally, some of the processes used to make these paints low VOC etc. actually release more VOCs and other damaging things into the environment as their made. Pick a company that offsets its damage or otherwise uses better processes.
There’s a lot to consider when choosing an eco-friendly paint, but hopefully this gives you a better idea of what to look for when deciding what goes on your walls. Always check the cans and pick a long-lasting paint you really like to make as small an impact as possible.
Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/what-exactly-is-eco-friendly-paint
Image Source: TreeLiving.com

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The post Brush vs Roller vs Sponge and More: What Should You Use to Paint? appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Brush? Roller? Sponge? This will seem old hat to our veteran painters and home-improvers, but hey, we all had to start somewhere, right! If you’re a painting novice, or you just want a clearer idea of what tool to use when, here’s the guide for you.

Brushes
When we think painting, we all think brushes. They’re the original, they’re iconic, and they’re still very much in use today.

When to Use- Brushes are primarily for three types of painting:

• Small areas
• Edges and difficult surfaces – corners, cabinet grooves and other areas that a roller or sponge or pad would have a hard time reaching
• To achieve a specific effect – such as antique

Notes on Brushes- The primary distinction between brushes are what they’re made of. This is important, because some brush-types are not made for certain types of paint or projects. When it comes to paint, natural brushes are made for oil-based paints, but they’ll become limp when using other paints (such as water based). Synthetic brushes whether foam or bristles, on the other hand, are great for all types. You’ll also want to note whether you need a stiff or soft brush. Stiff brushes are better for thicker paints and more textured surfaces, while soft are excellent with thin paints and smooth surfaces.

Rollers
Almost all large paint projects on flat surfaces will be best attacked with a roller. Rollers, like brushes, come in many shapes and sizes, but in general they make the painting process easier by:

• Picking up more paint
• Applying paint quicker
• Leaving fewer drips and seams between painted areas

When to Use Rollers- If you have a big area, you’ll probably want a roller. Even something the size of a cabinet door will go much quicker and look much smoother overall if you use a roller.

Notes on Rollers- Like brushes, rollers come in different sizes, materials and styles. Concerning size, you basically want to minimize the amount of strokes you need to use, so pick a roller that will cover the area most efficiently. The roller material, like brushes, depends on the type of paint. The rule is this: nylon or polyester rollers are for latex paints, natural rollers (mohair, lamb’s wool etc.) are for oils and blended rollers are for either.

The style of roller deals with a thing called “nap,” which is basically the texture of the roller. Naps come in various lengths, and the one you want is determined by how textured the surface is. Another rule of thumb for you: the more texture, the longer the nap. Smooth surfaces want an almost non-existent nap, or else the paint will come off the roller with a texture.

Sponges and Paint Pads

Paint Pads- Basically, these are flat pads with a surface that takes paint, which can then be applied to another surface. They work much the same way as rollers, in that they apply smoothly and in a large surface area, and the primary difference is that they can give sharper edge control. Pads can soak paint up and drip extensively so make sure not to apply too much to a paint pad.

Sponges- Sponges are specialty tools made to imbue the painted surface with a texture. They must be cared for and washed out well, or they will simply soak up paint, dry and become unusable, or even just fall apart from use.

And there you painters go: all the major types of paint applicators broken down by when they are best to use.

Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/brush-vs-roller-vs-sponge-and-more-what-should-you-use-to-paint
Image Source: The Painted House

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The post What to Ask – Dynamite Questions for Buying a Home Part 2 – Personal Questions appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Seller Questions
1. Why are you moving? This is another question that seems rude, and indeed you might find some people unwilling to tell you. But again, when making this big of a decision, you should know as much as possible. This can give you an idea about the time it’ll take to close (a divorce sale might take a while, while people in need of money might sell quicker). You can also get a good idea of whether the seller is willing and able to help with the financing and what’s wrong with the house, if anything.
Neighborhood Questions
1. Are there any issues with the neighbors? They might be reluctant to answer, but you can usually gauge the truth by their reaction to this question. The last thing you want to do is move into a place where one of the major reasons the last owner left was due to bad neighbors. You also definitely want to know about the nearby businesses and their traffic.

2. Have there been any crime issues? This is something you can look up, but again, the reaction will tell you quite a lot.

3. What are the schools like in the surrounding area? Schools might not be an issue for people without kids, but for others, or those who want kids, it’s a biggie. The Internet can tell you the basics, and maybe a little more, but hearing it first-hand is invaluable.

Property Questions
1. When was the roof put in? Not all roof-types have the same lifespan, and replacing one is very, very costly.

2. What type of foundation does it have, and what condition is it in (have they had any issues with it)? Another thing you just probably don’t want to have to mess with, so always know as much about it as possible.

3. Is the property in a flood plain or other environmentally risky area? These areas will mean more expensive insurance and possible damage or even evacuation.

4. Where are the exact property boundaries? Don’t assume you know the answer: this is going to be your land, you want to know exactly what you’re buying.

5. When were the appliances purchased, updated or last repaired? More than likely, these are staying, so you’ll want to have a firm grasp on their condition.

6. When was the home built? For one thing, Prestige Painting always recommends this question because homes built prior to the 1970s can have lead paint. This can mean further issues with the property for older homes.

The Two Most Important Questions
1. What problems have you had with this house? You’ll probably get some awkwardness, but if they won’t tell you, they might not be worth buying from. Don’t let anything slip past you- a good seller will know that you understand no house is perfect, and they’ll give you the skinny on what you can expect if you buy.

2. What do you like and dislike most about the house? Hopefully, they love the place and are moving for reasons other than distaste for it, but even then, there’s probably something that bothers them.
Ask away when you’re house hunting. You’re the one that’s going to live there, and any momentary awkwardness by asking a pointed question will soon be forgotten if you love the place. Blindsiding surprises once you’re in the home, however, will have to be dealt with for the long term.
Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/what-to-ask-dynamite-questions-for-buying-a-home-part-2-personal-questions
Image Source: Birmingham AL Homes for Sale

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The post From Garage to Bedroom (Or Whatever You Want!) – The Basics on Converting appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

What this article is, is a guide to the basic ideas behind garage conversion, in order to give you a better idea of what it takes if you decide to undertake the project in your home.
Building Codes
Something people often don’t think about, it might not even be possible to legally convert your garage.  You’ll have to check the building code that applies to your home to know whether or not a conversion is in the cards.
The Garage Door
If you just move the cars out and move stuff in, you’ll mostly end up very hot in the summer, very cold in the winter and with a “room” that fools no one into thinking it’s not a garage. For a true conversion, the door has to go. This involves not only taking the actual door off, but all the supporting mechanisms and machinery, then adding a wall.
The Floor
You might think, “Hey, it’s already got a floor!” Well, yes, but notice how your garage is lower than the rest of your house. That’s not just so the car can roll in easily, it’s because the floor in the rest of your home is insulated.  Garage floors are almost always bare concrete, and you’ll need to install a raised floor with insulation in it if you’re going to exist comfortably in the garage.
More Insulation, Plus the Rest of the Wall
Speaking of insulation, notice how the walls in your garage aren’t the same as the rest of your house?  That’s because there was really no need to insulate them when it wasn’t a living area.  You’ll need to add a second insulated layer of wall to what’s already there.  This means buying and installing the insulation, possibly adding some support and studs for drywall.
Electricity and Lights
More than likely, your garage doesn’t have all that many outlets or lights in it. Once again, this isn’t going to be great for extended use.  When you add a new layer of wall, you’ll have to move the electric outlets into it, and more than likely you’ll have to add a new circuit, such as a 20-amp, to support the additional power usage.  You may even want new areas hardwired for lights and new outlets.
Windows and Doors
A big room with no windows and the door that the garage originally had probably isn’t going to be very inviting.  And yes, adding a window where there was none is about as easy as you’d think it’d be, though it can absolutely turn a room from an obvious converted garage into a true part of the home.
The Dreaded Plumbing
If the new room needs plumbing, such as for a bathroom or kitchen area, things are going to get messy.  Plumbing is neither easy nor cheap to add, mostly due to the need for drainage, and just about the only break you can catch here is if your garage was connected to or very near a utility room you don’t really need.
The Cost
So, what’ll all this cost you? Probably somewhere between $15,000-50,000.  If you add a bathroom you’ll have to tack on quite a bit more.  If you’re really handy (and have a lot of free time), you could maybe reduce that to around $7000.  But if you’re that good, you probably don’t need this article to tell you what to do.  It’s not a cheap project, but if you build an actual addition to your house, you’ll need to do everything listed in this article, plus a whole lot more.
If you decide to go for it, all of us at Prestige Painting wish you the best of luck in what’s sure to be a difficult yet ultimately rewarding endeavor.
Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/from-garage-to-bedroom-or-whatever-you-want-the-basics-on-converting
Image Source: TrendMark, Inc.

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The post My Baby, Baby Blue: Historically Important Blues appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Blue has long been a color used to signify importance: important items, moments and even people and events throughout various cultures on our lovely little (blue) planet. If you’re in the mind to use this common yet complex shade in your home, well, have we got the first in our series blues to share with you today!
Lapis Lazuli – The Original Blue
Obviously there’s a lot of blue to see in nature from the sky to the ocean, but the thing about those blues is that they can’t be extracted for use on other things. This made blues incredibly rare and valued in ancient times. Eventually, once mining became a possibility, people started finding a beautiful blue stone known today as lapis lazuli.
It’s estimated that the stone was first mined in the Mesopotamia area (now Afghanistan) by the Egyptians. They went absolutely crazy for the color and started using it on all sorts of royal items. As a color, lapis lazuli is a very bright blue for the most part, though many hues can be found in just one stone, ranging from very deep to somewhat pale greyish blues.
The Origin of Ultramarine
From lapis lazuli, the ancients were able to grind a pigment that we still know today called ultramarine. Far from being some sort of insanely powerful military unit, ultramarine refers to a very bright, very deep blue that was extremely difficult to accurately recreate. Eventually, in the 13th century, the process was refined and this blue became the most prized paint color for many artists, though it was still very expensive.
Today there are two types of ultramarine:
Natural Ultramarine – These are made of raw materials, which are heated in a kiln to a solid, solitary lump that is then ground down.
Synthetic Ultramarine–Particles are more uniform and smaller in size resulting in a brighter blue. Because it is cheaper than natural ultramarine, the synthetic version is often used in paints.

Regal and relaxing, blue has been a color of choice for hundreds of years. Thanks to technology we no longer have to grind it out, and instead it is readily available in more shades than we can keep up with. On your wedding day, celebrating the birth of a son (or daughter), just repainting a room – blue is a color for all occasions.
Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/my-baby-baby-blue-historically-important-blues
Image Source: slodive.com

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The post Yes, You Can Paint that Metal! Tips for Painting on Metallic Surfaces appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Though painting metal is a bit different than painting more porous surfaces like wood, the steps to doing so really aren’t that different or complicated. In fact, some parts of the process are actually easier than with wood. Follow this guide, and your touch-ups and metal projects will come out lookin’ right as rain.
What You’ll Need

A mask (one that’s good for sandpapered paint as well as toxic paint, for good measure)
A wire brush
A wet cloth
Sandpaper
Anti-corrosive metal primer (zinc-chromate primer for rusted metal)
Latex paint
Bleach (optional, if your metal has mold on it)
The Process for Painting Metal
1. Using your metal brush, clean any dirt and other build-up from your metal item, if there is any. This is also the point where you’ll want to peel off any flaking or loose paint, because leaving it can cause your new coat of paint to bubble or come off.
2. Clean the object to be painted with your wet cloth. If there’s mildew or mold or other organic build-up, use the bleach, which should take these substances off easily. You want a clean surface so that the paint applies as smoothly as possible and bonds nicely.
3. With mask on, sand the surface down evenly across the whole object. What this does is two-fold: it evens the surface and, more importantly, it roughs it up. This lets the paint apply smoother and stick better in the long run, meaning your paint job will last longer and look much better.
4. With your mask still on, apply the primer, either with a brush (if canned) or spray it on if you have a spray. Do this thickly and evenly.
5. Let this dry fully (can take up to a day), then repeat step 4. The (kinda obvious) problem with metal objects is that they can rust; painting the primer on twice and thickly will help cut down on the chances of this happening immensely.
6. Once the second coat of primer has dried, put your mask back on and apply your paint evenly. Again, this will probably be either with brush or spray can. Use a thin, even coat.
7. Let this dry, then repeat. Continue to repeat steps #6 and #7 until you’re happy with the thickness and overall color.
8. Enjoy your perfectly painted metal object!
Pretty darn easy, if we do say so ourselves! If you weren’t thinking about painting anything metal until this tutorial, but are now interested, some great ideas include:
• Patio furniture
• Light fixtures
• Rusting antique objects like car parts
When sealed up with primer and paint, these can make quirky, gorgeous decorations for your outdoor or indoor space. Happy painting!

Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/yes-you-can-paint-that-metal-tips-for-painting-on-metallic-surfaces

Image Source: Contemporaryartbychristine

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The post What to Ask: Dynamite Questions for Buying a Home: Part 1 Financial Questions appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

The Importance of Asking the Right Questions
As the purchaser, you potentially have the most to risk by making the wrong decision about a property. Think about it: if you don’t buy it, you’re just out some time, as is the seller (which, for them, can mean a loss of money, but likely not a huge amount). If you do buy it, however, and things go badly, you don’t really have a lot of options, and the seller is sitting pretty.
A home is the average American’s biggest asset. It’s a huge investment. Those looking to buy a house should be prepared to ask a heck of a lot of questions about the property, and if you can’t get a good, straight answer, it might be time to look elsewhere, because the financial risk is just too great. If you’re on the house hunt, bring this handy list of dynamite financially focused questions with you, and try your best to get answers to just about every one of them. You might be surprised at what they turn up!
Financial Questions
1. How much did you pay for this house? Always, always, always try to find out the answer to this question. Not only does it give you an idea of how much room the seller has to work with, it tells you whether the property value has changed over the years, which can be indications of how it will appreciate in the future.

2. How did you come to the asking price? This question might seem rude, but remember this: they want to sell you this home. Hopefully, they’ve got a good agent who will give you what’s called a Comparative Market Analysis detailing the reasons for the given price.

3. How much do you still owe on the home? This gives you a couple bits of info: first, if the amounts is more than the price asked, they’re probably short selling the home, in which case you should ask if the bank has approved this or not. Beyond that, you should find out what the reason for the short sale is. If it’s less than the asking price, the difference should help you understand how quickly and how badly the owner wants to sell.

4. What upgrades have you done? This will help you determine how much money the current owners have invested in the home, which could be influencing the asking price. It will also tell you whether any appreciation is because of a general property value increase in the area, because they’ve improved the condition of the home or both.

The seller’s don’t have to answer these questions, and if they have an agent (which they most likely do) they’ll be the ones you have to ask. If you have an agent of your own they can look up valuable financial information for you, such as how much the current owners paid for the home and what homes in the neighborhood are selling for. Next time, in Part 2 of this series, Prestige Painting will look at questions you should ask about the seller, neighborhood and property itself. Happy House Hunting!
Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/what-to-ask-dynamite-questions-for-buying-a-home-part-1
Image Source: flickriver.com

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The post Use Gloss and Matte to Create Neat Wall Patterns appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Today, your Birmingham Alabama Painters will show you one of the easiest painting tricks out there that doesn’t require anything except a little bit of semi-gloss paint and either a stencil or some painter’s tape. Let’s check out the gloss-on-matte pattern trick!

Color Selection
With the gloss-on-matte technique the goal is to add a pattern painted in a semi-gloss to a matte wall. This can be done a few ways depending on your color choice and your pattern.
We particularly love the effect that comes about when the matte and gloss are the same exact color or only a shade off. This give a very subtle effect, letting the gloss itself define the pattern and sometimes only showing up in certain light (which looks incredible!).
For a bolder effect you can also apply this technique with complementary colors. One such combo we’ve really liked is black gloss on lighter colors or vice versa.
Pattern Selection
Whatever colors you choose, the pattern is what’s going to bring them out. When choosing a pattern, you can do a few different things:
The easiest is to simply use painter’s tape and a tape measure to lay out perfect stripes on the wall which you can then paint in with your gloss.
Checkers or squares are also easy to do with painter’s tape.
For something more complex a stencil is probably your best option. You’ll have to make sure you’re able to line the stencil up perfectly on the wall repeatedly, or else it could end up looking a little off. Bigger stencils are easier, except when you get to the corners, where you might have to chop one down a bit.
How to Do It
1. First, make sure your matte wall is clean and prepped. This means you’ll probably want to dust it, and possibly even give it a gentle wash (make sure you only use the recommended items for your paint when washing). You’ll also want to remove electric outlets, hangings and furniture from the area. Prepare the room for painting by setting down a drop cloth, taping up things you don’t want to get paint on and ventilating the room.

2. Apply your pattern to the wall. If this is just tape, use a measuring tape to perfectly lay out where your pattern is going to go, then apply the tape evenly and smoothly. If you have a stencil, your process will most likely involve taping it up smoothly and flush to the wall. It’s best if you mark out, in very light pencil, where each stencil should be placed before you start painting, so that you know what to expect and where any problem areas will be.

3. Next apply the semi-gloss paint in smooth, even motions to the wall with a paint roller that has the smallest nap possible (a higher nap can get under your stencil or tape if it’s not flush enough to the wall).

4. If you’re using tape, you can paint the whole wall in one go, but if you’re using a stencil, it’s often best to let each part dry before moving on to the next, as you may have to apply tape to the area you just painted.
And you’re done! Just about the easiest project there is, right? Adding a gloss pattern to a room will enliven the area and give your home a more unique look, without a full re-paint or texturizing.
Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/use-gloss-and-matte-to-create-neat-wall-patterns
Image Source: Kfddesigns.com

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The post The Difference Between Paint Masks appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

This goes doubly so with painting and working with paint (such as sanding it), as paints are, of course, made of chemical substances that can often be toxic and damaging. Before you start fretting, however, know that there are not only options out there for keeping your lungs nice and functioning, there’s a whole minor industry built up around the idea that each specific job should have a specific mask that provides tip-top security for that type of work.

Because of this, however, another issue has arisen that even some of the most veteran painters get dangerously wrong: not all masks are safe with all kinds of jobs. Many people think that if something’s covering their mouth and nose, then they’re okay, but that’s simply not the case. As we mentioned, safety masks are made to specifically combat certain airborne particles, and if you get the wrong kind, you aren’t getting any protection out of that mask. Here’s a simple breakdown of what each kind of available mask does and what kind of work they are safe for, and we hope this info helps keep you breathing easy after your projects.

When buying these masks, the packaging will very clearly label what kind of mask it is, and looking at the further details on the packaging will give you an even more clear look at what kind of stuff it works against.

Surgical Mask
They might look like dust and paint masks, but surgical masks don’t really do much when used for construction or painting purposes. Why’s that? Well, it’s pretty simple really: surgical masks are designed to keep airborne junk in, not out. Surgical might block a slight amount of material, but really they’re designed to keep bacteria and viruses from entering the air from your mouth, so you’re actually going to end up trapping some bad stuff in the mask with you if you use it for any type of house work.

Odor Masks
As the name says, these are simply for odors. These are mostly used for cleaning unsavory things or for those that find even non-toxic paint and chemical fumes to be bothersome. For anything with toxicity, this will do just about nothing to protect you.

Dust Masks
These are appropriate when all you’re dealing with is non-damaging particles, such as wood dust or generic dust. They’re really just the basic level of filter, and they say that right on the package. Basically, if it’s chemical-based (even if you’re just sanding something chemical-based like paint), this is not the mask for you. Now, don’t do this yourself, but this writer has had this proven to him by using one when spray painting and then taking it off, at which point the inside of the mask was revealed to be covered in black paint residue. That’s not a healthy sign, we can tell you that much.

Particulate Masks
Slightly different than dust masks, these are sometimes also okay for sanding paint and using airborne paints that do not contain oil. If the paint contains oil, the mask will not provide any protection. These are usually disposable (as are the above masks), though they sometimes have the added protection of an exhalation valve. To determine what a specific particulate mask protects against, always consult the packaging before use.

Respirators
Now, when it comes to just about any toxic and/or oil-based substance, the only true option is a respirator. You’ll know a true respirator because they’re much sturdier and are almost always made of plastics and rubbers (though there are some disposable ones that will clearly say they can be used for toxic materials). Respirators, however, are not all created equal, and there are three things to look at closely when purchasing.

1- Not all respirators protect against everything. In fact, few respirators do, and most are made to protect a user against one, two or a few things. Again, always consult the packaging, and always use a respirator that is appropriate for what you are working with. Some different things that specific respirators are made for include spray paint, pesticides, fiberglass particles, ammonia, acids and other gases.

2- Different respirators allow only one type of “cartridge” (or none, for the few disposable kinds), while others are “stackable” or interchangeable. If you think you might need to be protected against multiple kinds of toxic materials, you’ll probably want one that’s stackable (or at the least interchangeable), while single-cartridge types are fine if you’re just going to be exposed to one thing.

3- There are many different types of construction when it comes to respirators. As we mentioned, there are some disposable ones, which are not recommended for heavy or extensive use, but there are also half-mask, dual-cartridge and full-face respirators. Half-mask use only one cartridge on the side for added comfort and less of a chance of snagging, while dual-cartridge provide better protection from toxins and a longer life. Full-face, alternatively, protect the face as well with a screen of high-endurance see-through material that seals around the face. Additionally, different masks offer various degrees of “breathing resistance,” with the rule of thumb being that the less resistance (easier breathing), the cheaper the mask and the less the protection, except when you start to move up in price brackets, as some more expensive masks use better technology to achieve safety and the easiest breathing.

Of course, with all masks, one of the most important factors is getting one that fits. It’s kind-of hard to know what size mask you’ll need for your head without trying one on, so it’s recommended that you go to a hardware store and ask for assistance in choosing one if you’re unsure. All masks should provide a complete, unbroken seal around the face, or else the toxin-carrying air will simply slip in through the gaps, rendering your purchase mostly useless.

This might all sound like a bit of overkill, but trust us: it isn’t. Toxins in paints and construction materials are serious, and even a slight exposure to some can result in lasting damage. Your health is worth whatever mask you need to protect yourself, so do the research beforehand, use this guide, and get the right mask for the project. Your lungs and life expectancy will thank you.

Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/the-difference-between-paint-masks
Image Source: worldisround.com

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The post “Raise the Colors!” Painting Inspiration from the Military appeared first on Painted by Prestige.

Purple Heart Purple
One of the military’s highest honors, the Purple Heart is given to those wounded or killed in the line of duty. The medal bronze in the shape of a heart with a rich purple center. Around 2 million Purple Hearts have been awarded in our nation’s history. As a medal given “for military merit” (as it says on the back), the Purple Heart has been fashioned to bestow a regal honor on its recipients, and its beautiful purple does just that. The deep purple is almost in the blue family of colors, and is forever associated with valor and courage in the line of fire, qualities we salute in honor of our fallen heroes.

Camouflage
Camouflage or “Camo” (as it is often referred to) is pretty ubiquitous these days, being used in all kinds of civilian fashions, but the original use was, of course, to help blend soldiers into their surroundings and shield them from the prying eyes of enemy troupes. The word itself actually refers to any sort-of coloring pattern that hides a creature, not just the military usage, but it’s been in use in combat zones at least since the Romans, who were said to use “Venetian blue” to hide their ships on the ocean. Modern camo comes in a huge variety of color patterns, but of course, the most well-known look is a combination of forest greens, light greens, tans and dark browns. Used as a color palette by extracting a few of the colors, camo colors can be used as the basis for some lovely rooms, especially when sticking to the various hues of one color. We especially like the idea of snow and urban camos, which use whites and greys, applied to a study or a sitting room.
Battleship and Gunmetal Grey
Speaking of greys, some of the most lovely colors ever crafted, found their biggest uses in military objects, specifically in ships and guns. Battleship grey is a bit dull for some tastes, being somewhat of a flat, medium grey, but when used against white, it makes for a striking accent. It’s a wonderful color to use on furniture, pillows or decorations, and can even be nice as a trim. Gunmetal grey, on the other hand is a bit more of a prominent, deeper grey tinted with a darker blue. We also like it as an accent, but it can also be used as the primary color for a den or even a dining room, with white as the accent against it.
Navy Blue
The uniforms of the United States Navy are some of the most recognizable and memorable in the world, and a lot of that has to do with the deep, attractive blue they come in. Appropriately called “navy blue,” this blue is a descendant of one of the original blues, previously associated with paintings of the Virgin Mary. This is a wonderful color for furniture, especially chairs and couches, and it pairs well with a wide variety of other colors, especially light ones (though blacks are good too).
Red, White and Blue
Of course, the colors of our nation’s beloved flag had to make this list. Though these colors can be a little loud when used in equal amounts (as they are very bright), try using a large amount of white with just a small amount of red and blue for a subtly patriotic, very appealing effect in bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and living rooms. You can also try tweaking the hues of each a little, taking the white a bit off and slightly brightening or paling the red and blue to achieve a nice look, wherever you decide to use it.
The military certainly does have good fashion sense, and just walking around the streets of a big city, you’re more than likely to see all of these colors and patterns on everything from clothes to cars in just a short time. Of course, the focus for Memorial Day should be on those who’ve bravely served, so if you read this article and do decide to go the military-inspired route, why not take a moment and give a silent moment of respect? The soldiers might not ever know you did, but you can be sure, they’re families would appreciate it.

Original Source: https://paintedbyprestige.com/diy/raise-the-colors-painting-inspiration-from-the-military/

Image Source: wsau.com 550am

The post “Raise the Colors!” Painting Inspiration from the Military appeared first on Painted by Prestige.